Review: The Bacon Butter Burger – Burger & Beyond

The bacon burnt butter burger

Burger & Beyond have been around for a few years, in the form of a converted Citreon H van, selling their fine burgers at popups, events, and box parks in London and beyond. I first tried their burgers at National Burger Day at Hawker House, but they recently opened a bricks and mortar restaurant in Shoreditch.

The owners of B&B, Craig Povoas and Tom Stock, own the farm in Essex that they source the all their meat from, guaranteeing quality. They dry age it between 45 and 90 days depending on the burger.

We visited on the 3rd of January, our Hogmanay misadventures still ringing around our heads, exactly a month after their restaurant opened. I had the Bacon Butter Burger, with an extra patty, and no other changes.

The Burger

Visually, the Bacon Butter Burger is stunning. Quite a tall burger, much taller than it is wide, but as I’d ordered the extra patty I could hardly complain. Cheese oozed temptingly out from the sides, bacon peeking out from the top, and there was just a suggestion of the amazing burnt butter mayo on the bottom bun.

The Bun

The bun is a sesame-seed brioche affair, with a nice egg-wash glaze on top. It had a slightly sweet note to it, which wasn’t particularly desired, but not too strong as to put me off this wonderful burger.

It had a light, airy and open texture, quite different from most burger buns. Physically a large bun, it nevertheless squeezed down to a manageable volume when compressed, and didn’t interfere with eating the burger. It was lightly toasted but otherwise untouched. It held everything together well and didn’t fall apart.

The Patty

The first thing that strikes you about the patty is the texture. Clearly Burger & Beyond are using a very hot grill, as the patty surface has a definite crunch – not at all burned, just a serious dose of Maillard goodness. I’ve never had a burger with such a profound crust before, and I have to say I loved it.

Immediately after the crunch, you get a mass of savoury, meaty juices erupting from the patty. This was a very juicy burger, although notably not to the extent that it made a mess of my plate – very well balanced indeed. The patty was very well seasoned, and tended towards being a touch on the salty side.

This isn’t some bland, rubbery, limp mass of mince, this is a seriously well thought out patty, bursting with rich juices. I’d guess it was around the 4oz mark (130g). There’s a definite dry aging note to the beef, unsurprising given it’s 60-day aging, however it’s not overpowering and doesn’t stray into blue cheese territory.

It’s a fairly coarse patty, not as loose a grind as others we have reviewed, but certainly not overly compressed. The meat has a tendency towards being a bit lumpy, but not unpleasantly so. I suspect it’s due to them using some interesting, tougher cuts. I sadly wasn’t able to find out the cuts used, but trust me, they’re great.

This is one of the finest burger patties I’ve ever had. The slight crunch on the outside, coupled with the juiciness and depth of flavour, yield a patty with excellent texture and a great taste.

Toppings & Condiments

The burger I chose wasn’t overwhelmed with toppings – a standard serving of burger cheese, one slice per patty, a mass of streaky bacon on top, and some of the wonderful, unctuous burnt butter mayo on the bottom, with a touch (a very small touch) of white onion.

The bacon, a nice high-quality streaky, was abundant atop the cheese. It was quite underdone, and while I like limp bacon for a nice butty, I prefer my burger bacon to be a bit more browned for a better flavour. I docked it a point for that, although doing that feels slightly pedantic.

The burnt butter mayo deserves a special mention. This is some seriously amazing stuff, rich, unctuous, delicious. Applied in a relatively thin layer on the bottom bun, it was a more than adequate quantity.

The cheese was unremarkable (and this is a good thing), one slice of American cheese per patty, well melted.

I can’t say anything against the lamination of the burger, its few well-chosen condiments were perfectly ordered.

Summary

This is a seriously great burger, and the only one we have reviewed to rival Bleecker’s amazing bacon double cheeseburger. The patty is absolutely first rate, guaranteed to please. The bun works well with the burger, and the toppings & condiments were excellent, notably the burnt butter mayo that I can only rave about.

One final point – for the double patty version, it can be a little much as you get towards the end. I was easily able to finish my burger (try and stop me!), however it was a lot of very, very rich food, and others may struggle.

Score

  • Patty – 5
  • Bun – 4
  • Construction – 4
  • Lamination – 5
  • Toppings & Condiments – 4
  • Total – 4.4

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